Goody. Welcome to Part 2 of Glutton Fest 2011. We left off on Christmas Day, which we celebrated in Seville. Here’s what we did (i.e. ate) on our last day in Seville and back in Madrid!
Monday 12/26 – SEVILLE / MADRID
Bar Alfalfa (Candilejo, 1) – Chelsea highly recommended this place for tostadas (she’d lived in Seville for about a year-and-a-half). Clara and I had actually tried to come here on Christmas Day, but obviously it was closed. It was very cute and affordable, but I was kind of turned off by the fact that they sold their own t-shirts. Memo to cute restaurants! Once you start selling merchandise, your charm factor disappears! Especially with bad multi-lingual puns like: Yes, we caña! (Were these left over from the Obama campaign in 2008?) Anyway, after we ate here, we headed to the Real Alcazar (I was convinced that I’d never been there before, but I looked at my old photos and realized that I had), which is very pretty and probably even prettier in the spring.
Restaurante Coloniales (Jimios, 34) – Chelsea also recommended this restaurant and advised us to get there early (like 1:30 pm for lunch) since it fills up. We arrived at like 12:30, but they said that their kitchen wouldn’t open for another hour, so we went to the Cathedral instead and climbed the stairs. Once we realized it was 1:30, we were like, “Screw this,” and headed to the restaurant, which was already filling up (with actual Spaniards!). We followed Chelsea’s recommendation and got the chicken breast with almond sauce. It was fucking delicious. We also got some white wine and a bread appetizer with salmorejo and jamón ibérico, which was also delicious. We ate majestically (I should’ve taken photos but we were busy devouring our food), and there was a gigantic crowd outside waiting to eat. Wow! Anyway, we walked the 50 feet to our hotel (hooray for Clara for selecting a very conveniently located hotel!) to pick up our backpacks and head to the train station to return to Madrid.
Hey, did you know that going one-way for four-and-a-half hours from Madrid to Granada costs €69.40, but going one-way for two-and-a-half hours from Seville to Madrid costs €83.90?* Weird. Anyway, once we arrived in Madrid, we went to the supermarket, and Clara made pasta with a delicious sauce with carrots, onions, zucchini, beef, and some other stuff. Yum. I forced her to watch Louis C.K.’s latest special (available for $5 on his website!), and she even laughed a little in spite of herself. The whole experience was even better because Lidia had gone home the same day we left for Granada, so my entire apartment was empty. Yay!
Tuesday 12/27 – MADRID
Montenevado (Barquillo, 20) – Before heading to the Thyssen, Clara and I stopped by this café for Second Breakfast, a glorious Hobbit tradition. Obviously, the bartender asked us if we were Chinese or Japanese. Anyway, we went to the Thyssen (my first time) where we bought the Paseo del Arte pass for €20.80. (It basically pays for itself after visiting the Prado and either the Reina Sofía or the Thyssen.) We looked at art and felt good about ourselves.
La Paella de la Reina (La Reina, 39) – Clara wanted to have paella, and my friend (now roommate) Liz recommended this place. It’s kind of funny that Clara wanted to have paella in Madrid since she’d already had it in Valencia. I always wonder about Spaniards who look at tourists who have paella outside of Valencia. Anyway, we actually took photos! Here’s a picture of the house paella, which Liz recommended:

YUM. Here’s the after:

As my cousin Laura pointed out, we were wasteful and left some perfectly good food. Boo. We went shopping a bit around Sol (ugh, being near Sol; yay, spending time with Clara) before resting at home before going out to have some tapas with my classmates.
Boñar de León (Cruz Verde, 16) – Clara and I met up with my classmates Justin, Elizabeth, Meredith, and Meghan (Meredith’s visiting friend from Connecticut). I’ve been to Boñar de León several times, not because the food is particularly great but because it’s plentiful and free with drinks. You can eat a ridiculous amount of food here with the purchase of a €3 or €4 alcoholic beverage. What’s not to love? After eating a good share of free tapas, the others headed to eat elsewhere, but Clara and I returned home so we could catch a 10 am bus to nearby Segovia.
Wednesday 12/28 – SEGOVIA / MADRID
Before leaving for Segovia, we ate breakfast at home (how quaint!) before heading to Príncipe Pío to catch the bus. The station is actually really pretty, but we exited the metro through the wrong exit, so we walked through a mall with a gigantic two-floor Burger King. Gross.
Café Something (Fernández Ladreda) – Obviously, we had to have Second Breakfast again. We had café con leche and split two pastries, and I enjoyed everything. Afterwards, we walked to the Aqueduct, took photos, and I said in my best Djimon Hounsou, “I did not know men could build such things!”
Restaurante José María (Cronista Lecea, 11) -After walking around (do people do anything else besides check out the Aqueduct and the Alcazar?), we headed to this restaurant known for their cochinillo, a famous Segovian dish. Even though I’d previously been to Segovia twice, I’d never tried it, even though everyone raves about it. This restaurant was really packed (we picked it because it was in my Time Out), but we were seated immediately. We ordered a salad and nervously ordered the cochinillo. It’s kind of ridiculous that we were so nervous because we’ve obviously eaten pork before, but I guess actually seeing it in animal form just creates this horrible guilt. Not too long after our waiter took away our salad, somebody brought this downstairs:

Look at that poor little guy. I didn’t even notice his tail (his TAIL!) until I saw this photo. The waiter walked to all the tables and showed it around (since it’s split among various tables). For a second, I’d panicked that we had to eat the entire thing. Anyway, a man in a white chef’s outfit (or something) walked downstairs, put on a medal (I swear… do you have to be certified?) before cutting it up with a plate. I could not watch. But oh my goodness… it was delicious. DELICIOUS. I shouldn’t have looked at the pig afterwards, though, because half his face was missing. Thank GOD we didn’t get a piece of… appendage. The woman at the table next to us got his ear. Our portions just looked like… meat.
We returned to Madrid, where we hung out at my apartment and Clara made pasta again (yum!). We decided to go to the Reina Sofía, but since it was past 7 pm, it was free admission (woo, I can use my Paseo for another time). It was my first time at the museum, which Clara smugly (ha) informed me was once an 18th-century hospital. (I whispered to her, “If you listen carefully, you can still hear the screams of the psychiatric patients,” and she got really mad at me.) I looked at Guernica and felt cultured.
Chocolatería San Ginés (San Ginés, 5) – Oh man. Yeah, we came back after the Reina Sofía. (If you’re keeping track, this marked my fourth visit in less than two weeks. Seriously, I’m never going back. I usually just feel sick afterwards.) There were some older (50′s or 60′s) British men behind us on line who wound up sitting next to our table. Clara talked a bit with one of them as I went to pick up our order. Turns out that they are four friends who are having a short trip to Spain, which made us wonder if their wives are dead. Hm. Anyway, we walked back to my apartment, and some guy said, “Ni hao!” to Clara, and I promptly yelled, “FUCK YOU!” to him, which made some policemen look in our direction (I’m assuming most people know what “fuck you” means, even if they don’t speak English), which made Clara laugh but also insist that we make sure the guy wasn’t following us on our way home. When we got to my apartment, I made her watch more stuff online. She played Fruit Ninja.
Thursday 12/29 – MADRID
Rocafría (Barquillo, 20) – We had our Sole Breakfast here. (Sole!) This is really close to my place (and my school) so I’ve been here quite a few times. We got here early with the intention of arriving early at the Prado, which opens at 9 am.
El Prado (Ruiz de Alarcón, 23) – Okay, so this isn’t a restaurant, but whatever. Once we got to the museum, we realized that purchasing that Paseo del Arte at one of the less popular museums (i.e. not the Prado) was a great move, since we were able to wait on a shorter line. We were first on one of the lines, and the security guy gave me a friendly pat on the back after I joked that he was a super popular guy since everyone wanted to talk to him (in various languages that I don’t think he speaks, ha). Unlike the other major museums, I’d been to the Prado before. But again, I went to look at Las Meninas to feel cultured.
Anyway, as we were waiting on line to pay for something at the gift shop, we realized that we were in the middle of a huge group of Japanese tourists. The Spanish cashier even spoke Japanese, and I told Clara, “Let’s see if she speaks Japanese to us,” which she obviously did. Good deity, any second-year undergraduate anthropology student should be able to determine that we have zero Japanese features (they are a very homogeneous people!**), not to mention I’m like 30 pounds heavier than the average Japanese female. Whatever. We drank café con leche and split a pastry from the café, which was surprisingly not very overpriced.
Diurno (San Marcos, 37) – After leaving the Prado and looking around some of the fancy boutiques on Piamonte and Almirante, we went to Diurno for our final meal together in Madrid (sob!). Diurno is this huge U.S.-style (at least I think so) café with coffee, alcoholic drinks (okay, maybe that’s not very American), pre-made sandwiches and salads. Not fantastic but not terrible. I’ve been here various times.
Sniff. After lunch, we went back to my place where we picked up Clara’s stuff, and I accompanied her to Barajas. In conclusion, it was awesome to spend the week with my sister, who will be back in Europe in February for Nuremberg Toy Fair. (I’m very amused that such a fun thing like a toy fair could take place in a city that is probably known best for prosecuting Nazis.) So yay, maybe we will see each other again very soon. But now that Clara is back in New York, maybe I will eat normally again, though I did eat very delicious things.
Fin.
* Illogical transportation costs is one of my major problems with the beloved (by others) film Love Actually. That weird-looking guy who went to the U.S. to have sex with dumb American girls (including the appropriately cast January Jones, Elisha Cuthbert, and Denise Richards). So supposedly, that guy wanted the cheapest flight from London to anywhere in the U.S. How the hell is Madison, Wisconsin, the cheapest flight from London? First of all, I highly doubt that there are direct London-Madison flights. Most likely, getting to Wisconsin from London would require a layover in a major East Coast city, like New York or D.C. or something. So wouldn’t the cheapest flight be New York or D.C.? Then again, I guess it’s easier to portray a college bar (or something) in Madison, Wisconsin.
** I love this use of the word people.